Behind the Counter: A Conversation with Jill Erber & Cathal Armstrong of Corso Italian
Have you heard about Corso Italian, the new Italian-inspired restaurant in the Village at Shirlington? Good friend Jill Erber - of Cheesetique fame - has teamed up with another good friend, James Beard nominee/Food & Wine magazine’s 10 Best New Chefs 2006/Best Chef Award Winner by the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington DC, Chef Cathal Armstrong. Jill and Cathal have known each other since before she opened the original Del Ray Cheesetique in 2004, and he quickly began shopping there for his then-new Restaurant Eve in Old Town. The pair’s decades-long friendship has been transformed into a delicious creative partnership in Corso Italian. Think hand-made pastas and a modern takes on Italy’s classic dishes inspired by seasonal ingredients and homemade pantry staples. The beverage program highlights an all-Italian wine list, and features Negronis, Spritzes, and an Amaro bar. And you know if you want to bring something home, pastas, sauces, cheeses, and wine are all in the restaurant’s market.
We are so excited about this union and the incredible union and how the “Cheese Lady” aka Jill Erber and Chef Cathal brought Corso Italian to fruition. The restaurant is named after the Via del Corso in Rome — the heart of the city and a communal gathering place — and that is where this all begins
How did the alliance come about?
Cathal — Jill and I got to know each other back in 2001 when I was at Bistro Bis in DC. When I opened Restaurant Eve in 2004, she was opening the original Cheesetique and I would visit weekly to make selections for the cheeseboard at Restaurant Eve. We’ve had a friendly, collaborative relationship ever since.
Jill — My husband and I were exploring new concepts and set up conversations with several industry friends we had known over twenty plus years in the business. Naturally, we asked Cathal for his feedback and advice. The conversation was dynamic and inspiring — and almost immediately, “what do you think of this idea?” turned into a collaboration.
Why do something new in Shirlington?
Jill — We are coming up on the 20th anniversary for Cheesetique. The Del Ray location is thriving — it had its highest sales ever in 2023 — and it continues to be a social and cultural hub in our community.
In Shirlington, which first opened in 2011, we unveiled a brand-new space in late 2019 — and just a few months later, the pandemic hit. A few years later, we had this beautiful space and we knew it could be more dynamic. We’ve toyed with ideas for some time and it occurred to us that Shirlington is the perfect spot for the “Corso Italian” concept. The crowd is worldly and food-curious, but unpretentious. We believed an exciting, modern take on Italian is perfect for the Village.
Why Italian?
Cathal — My first kitchen job was at an Italian restaurant where I learned formative lessons about the restaurant business, so it feels like coming home. I’ve professionally cooked food and designed menus across numerous global cuisines and I’m excited to apply the elevated yet comfortable style I brought to the Restaurant Eve experience to an Italian-inspired menu.
In Italy, there are twenty culinary regions. Over 600 pasta shapes. The cuisine is globally influenced, so the breadth of Italian cuisine is almost never-ending and infinitely inspiring.
Jill — My mission is to make people feel welcome — I’m a host. Italian food is some of the most comforting and hospitable food in the world. Everyone loves Italian and it’s also incredibly diverse, so we have a wonderful palate to explore. Plus, Italian cheeses and wines have always been a sweet spot for us.
You describe Corso as “neo-retro.” What does that mean?
Jill — Everything, from the cocktails to the decor to the music to the vintage Italian films at the bar, is about the juxtaposition of modern and classic. We want guests to feel comfortable, but also surprised and delighted.
Cathal — We’re blending the classic and the modern with the food, too. Take the Veal Chop. Our version is bone in, plate engulfing, and we have a variety of sauces adorning it like a Jackson Pollack painting. Our new, light-as-air Gnocchi is filled with fresh morels and spring garlic to celebrate the season.Everything we can, we make in-house: cheeses, sauces, Italian sausage, guanciale, pancetta, bresaola. We even grow our own micro-greens and herbs. And every day, guests can watch our pastas being made in the front of the shop. It’s hypnotic!
