Behind The Counter: A Conversation with Matthew Fisk of WineLAIR
For the very last Behind The Counter of 2025, TheListAreYouOnIt.com presents Matthew Fisk, a dedicated hospitality professional with over a decade of experience in restaurant and beverage management, currently serving as a sommelier at WineLAIR, here in DC. At the exclusive private wine club, he curates refined wine experiences for members and is known for his operational insight and team leadership and has had positions at top D.C. restaurants like Del Mar, Fiola Mare, and Casa Luca, as well as overseeing beverage programs for the Line Hotel and Foodshed. Matthew has a Level Two certification from the Court of Master Sommeliers, along with hands-on experience at Joseph Drouhin and Domaine Drouhin,
Let’s end the year on a Wine Journey with Michael Fisk. In the world of wine, building a personal cellar is an exciting venture that blends art, science, and passion. To guide aspiring collectors on this journey, we spoke with Michael who shared his expertise on everything from cellar fundamentals to wine selection and building valuable industry relationships. Here, Michael offers insights on balancing personal enjoyment with preservation techniques and expanding one’s wine knowledge. Goals for 2025!
When starting a personal wine cellar, what foundational elements should one prioritize to ensure both functionality and quality preservation?
Start by evaluating the space in your home that’s naturally more stable in terms of temperature fluctuations. Whether you're considering installing insulated walls or a high-end HVAC system, you’ll benefit from choosing a location where temperatures change gradually rather than suddenly. In some of the old European wineries with underground cellars, temperatures aren’t necessarily at the "ideal" cellar temperature, but they fluctuate very little. This stability is key for your collection.
With so many varietals available, how should a collector choose wines for long-term aging? Are there certain types you’d recommend for a beginner’s collection?
Do your homework, trust your instincts, and buy what you love. If you’re interested in long-term aging, consider leaving room for larger bottles, especially Champagnes, as they tend to age more gracefully. Remember, only a small percentage of wines improve significantly with age. Some, like Rieslings, retain their quality over time without much change, which can be impressive in itself. And don’t feel like you have to wait forever—many wines are fantastic at 5-10 years old. If you’re collecting to trade, classics like Bordeaux, Cabernet blends, vintage ports, and high-quality Rieslings are great choices.
What are the ideal environmental conditions for aging wine, and how do fluctuations in temperature and humidity impact the wine?
Stability is crucial. Aim for around 60% humidity to keep corks in good condition. Too high (above 70%) and it can lead to mold; too low (below 50%) and corks may dry out. A steady temperature around 55°F (13°C) is generally ideal. While natural cellars in Europe often experience a temperature range, it’s the slow, gradual changes that matter, not rapid fluctuations. Quick temperature shifts flatten wine over time.
Wine collecting can be both a passion and an investment. What advice do you have for those building a cellar on a budget while considering future financial returns?
Build your collection with a blend of what you enjoy and what others value. Personally, I’m not a big fan of Cabernet, but I collect it because it’s popular and valuable for trading. Sometimes, a single bottle of a sought-after Cabernet can be swapped for a case of Riesling or Champagne that I truly want. Doing your research and collecting some high-demand wines can allow you to trade for your preferred bottles later.
For collectors with specific tastes, how would you recommend balancing personal preferences with the desire to expand their palate?
Use tastings at wineries, restaurants, or wine events to broaden your palate. Your cellar should reflect decisions you’ve already made—wines you know you want to explore over time. Personally, I collect mostly whites and sparkling wines because that’s where my interest lies. Collect according to your taste and let your cellar reflect your individuality.
Building a diverse collection often requires access to exclusive wines. What’s your advice for developing relationships with suppliers or wine shops to secure rare bottles?
Relationships are everything in the wine world. Get to know restaurant buyers with wine lists you admire or trusted local retailers. They can help you acquire specific wines, and sometimes even introduce you to winemakers. Building rapport with them makes a difference when it comes to accessing rare bottles—they’ll remember you when allocating stock.
What are some best practices for maintaining and managing a wine cellar?
Always store your bottles horizontally to keep the corks moist. Avoid cleaning with bleach, as it can lead to cork taint, which can spoil the wine. Instead, use caustics like sodium hydroxide if needed, and rinse thoroughly. Perform weekly or biweekly temperature checks to catch any problem areas in your cellar and adjust accordingly.
Education is key to a rewarding wine-collecting experience. What resources or practices would you recommend for collectors who want to continue enhancing their knowledge?
For ongoing education, subscribe to resources like JancisRobinson.com—her reviews are insightful and largely unbiased. Stay connected with drinking partners, retailers, and your local wine community. And don’t underestimate the power of creating a personal syllabus that incorporates all of these resources to guide your learning.